The Genesis

I named this board "The Genesis" because, although I had been making boards for a while by 1973 (not a lot, but some), it was the point when I began to truly understand how specific features influenced a board's performance across various conditions and with any fin setup. Up to 6'10", it will also work as a twin fin; beyond that length, the twin fin setup becomes less effective. This board design ranges from 6 to 9 feet, and since I hand-shape every board, I can adapt the curve to work effectively in all these sizes. Fifty years later, bored with an injured arm, I went into my shaping room and pulled out the original template. I added a 1-inch piece of tape around each side, effectively increasing the board's dimensions by 2 inches overall. This brought the board forward half a century, resulting in dimensions current with today's standards. The only differences are the bottom contour and the rails. In the summer of 1973, after a couple of winters living on the North Shore, I wanted to experience a surf town and simply hang out. I surfed spots like Ala Moana rock pile, among others. My board was a 6'10" Lightning Bolt, 20 inches wide, with a single fin and swallow tail.